If the latest series of BBC One’s Vigil has left you looking at Svalbard differently, you are not alone. The third series, starring Suranne Jones and Rose Leslie, arrived on BBC One and BBC iPlayer on 30th August, taking its murder investigation north to the remote Norwegian archipelago. Parts of the series were filmed in Svalbard itself, putting its huge mountains, snow covered valleys and isolated Arctic landscapes firmly in the spotlight.
Away from the drama, Svalbard is one of the most extraordinary places in the Nordics for an Arctic holiday. Sitting at around 78 degrees north, Longyearbyen feels genuinely remote, yet offers excellent accommodation, restaurants and experiences alongside landscapes that seem to stretch almost endlessly towards the North Pole.
Experience the Polar Night
Winter completely changes the way you experience Svalbard. The Northern Lights Winter runs from October through February, with the sun gradually disappearing towards the end of October.
From 26th October until 16th February, the sun remains below the horizon in Longyearbyen. Within this period comes the true Polar Night, from around 14th November until 29th January, when the sun sits more than six degrees below the horizon and there can be very little distinction between day and night.
It does not mean that every winter day looks exactly the same. October begins with more than ten hours of daylight, but this reduces rapidly until the sun finally disappears below the horizon. Towards February, a beautiful blue twilight begins to return around the middle of the day before the sun itself reappears later in the month.
See the Northern Lights in the Middle of the Day
One of the strangest and most memorable things about visiting Svalbard during the Polar Night is the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights during what would normally be daytime.
With no sunlight to brighten the sky, Aurora viewing is not restricted to the evening. If conditions are right, the Northern Lights can appear above the mountains at midday, turning an ordinary afternoon excursion into something completely unexpected.
Head away from Longyearbyen by snowcat and you can travel into Adventdalen, leaving the lights of town behind while looking for the Aurora. Snowcat trips are also a comfortable way to experience the scale of the landscape without needing to travel by snowmobile.
Dog Sledding and Arctic Adventures
Svalbard is made for exploring. Dog sledding takes you quietly through snow covered valleys behind an eager team of huskies, with little more than the sound of runners, paws and the Arctic wind around you. During the darker months you might even find yourself sledding beneath the Northern Lights.
Earlier in the winter season, before deeper snow has settled, ATV adventures offer another way to reach the valleys beyond Longyearbyen. Polar Night ATV safaris head into Adventdalen, combining Arctic landscapes, local history and the chance to look for the Northern Lights.
Stay at Funken Lodge
After a day outside, Funken Lodge makes an excellent base in Longyearbyen. This boutique Arctic hotel sits above the town with views towards the surrounding mountains and glaciers, combining comfortable rooms with an inviting lounge, open fireplace, restaurant and bar. It offers somewhere warm and relaxed to return to after hours spent exploring the cold and darkness outside.
Glaciers, Wildlife and Arctic Waters
Svalbard changes dramatically with the seasons. As winter gives way to spring and summer, boat trips become another reason to visit. Travel across the fjords towards immense glacier fronts while looking for Arctic wildlife including walrus, seals, whales, seabirds and reindeer along the shoreline. Wildlife boat excursions are primarily a late spring and summer experience, so the best time to travel depends on whether Polar Night and Northern Lights or wildlife and time on the water are your priority.
A Beer at the Top of the World
There is even somewhere rather unusual for an evening drink. Longyearbyen is home to Svalbard Brewery, recognised as the world’s northernmost craft brewery. Sitting at 78 degrees north, it produces beers using Arctic glacier water and offers brewery visits and tastings where you can learn how brewing became possible in one of the world’s most remote communities.
Vigil might have brought Svalbard’s white landscapes onto television screens across the UK, but visiting reveals something far bigger. Polar Night, daytime Northern Lights, huskies, glaciers, wilderness and a surprisingly welcoming little town combine to make this one of the most distinctive holiday destinations in the Arctic.
