A 48 hour visit to Stockholm did not disappoint.
I stayed at Hotel Diplomat, overlooking the beautiful harbour, and from the moment I arrived I knew this was going to be a great hotel. Traditional Art Deco lighting, original features and a stunning lift all sit alongside a hotel that feels polished without losing its personality.
My room had double doors opening onto a sweet little balcony overlooking the courtyard, with views towards the water and the boats pulling into the dock. After travelling, opening those doors and letting the cool Stockholm air into the room was very welcome.
Then there was the bed. Crisp, freshly laundered linen, three pillows on either side, Oxford pillowcases, smelling amazing and everything was beautifully put together. The rain shower may also have been the most powerful shower on the planet, and after travelling it was exactly what I needed.
What really stood out, though, were all the small details.
There was chilled wine in the minibar with crystal glasses, bone china coffee cups, a coffee machine, thick white towels, bath robes and slippers. A shoe mitt, shoe horn, vanity pack, shampoo, conditioner and shower gel were all there too. Small chocolate gold eggs sat beside the bed and, just when I thought they had covered everything, I found a little box containing an adaptor plug.
Every little detail had been thought about.
After settling in, I headed out for a walk along the harbour before going into the restaurant for dinner. The menu was small and simple, but wow, it packed a punch.
The steak tartare and salad were amazing, the wine was excellent and the staff were attentive without being over the top. Lunch was just as good, with fresh chanterelle cannelloni, Parmesan shavings and a delicious white wine sauce.
It was exactly the sort of food I had hoped to find in Stockholm. Simple, seasonal and very well done.
Moving around the city was easy too. The taxis were clean, courteous and always on time, although sometimes a little fast when you are trying to keep up with the views out of the window.
Next stop was Villa Dagmar.
Walking through the main reception, you suddenly arrive into a large covered courtyard, with the dining area sitting underneath a spectacular honeycomb roof. A huge open bar sits in the centre and gives the whole space a great atmosphere, while four separate buildings surround the courtyard and all look back into it.
It feels very different from Hotel Diplomat but just as considered.
On one side, stone steps lead up into the large covered market next door. This was one of those moments where you walk through a doorway and suddenly find yourself somewhere completely different.
Fresh fish, huge displays of vegetables, cheeses, breads and just about everything else you can think of fill the market, with small eateries dotted between the stalls. You could easily eat in the hotel restaurant, or walk into the market and stop somewhere for something completely different.
The suites at Villa Dagmar are large and carefully thought out too. The seating areas have huge floor to ceiling windows, bringing in plenty of natural light, while some of the sleeping areas are positioned away from the windows.
It makes complete sense, particularly if you have travelled a long way and are dealing with jet lag. You can enjoy the light during the day without waking up as soon as the Stockholm morning arrives.
The bathrooms are finished in marble with elegant Victorian style sinks, and even here there were little details that made me smile.
Outside the room there is a small doorbell for room service.
From Villa Dagmar it was on to Hotel Skeppsholmen to meet Gareth Baty and Chef Alex, bringing yet another completely different side of Stockholm into the same 48 hours.
And that was probably the thing that struck me most about the trip.
In just two days, Stockholm managed to feel traditional and modern, grand and relaxed, polished and completely unpretentious. Harbour views, brilliant food, beautiful hotels, local markets and those small details you only notice when someone has genuinely thought about the experience.
Forty eight hours was not long enough, but it was certainly enough to make me want to go back.
